August 1st, 2008 - By John Gunter

During July and August each summer, the mouth of the Churchill River teems with beluga whales. Compared to whale watching at other destinations, I think Churchill is so exciting for two reasons: there really are a lot of whales (the researchers say 3000+ near Churchill); and beluga whales are curious creatures. Unlike any other whale, the belugas' curiosity is accentuated by their ability to turn their heads and lock your gaze. Also, belugas are amongst the most vocal of any whale species. More on that later, though!        

       
Winnipeg's historic Union Station was designed by the same architects responsible for Grand Central Station in New York and provides visitors a taste of Winnipeg's rich architectural past. If you're planning on participating on our Belugas Birds and Blooms adventure, I strongly suggest prior to the trip you enjoy a walking tour of Winnipeg's Exchange District, designated a National Historic site.       
       
We commenced our trip boarding our VIA Rail train at Union Station, heading west out of the city and slowly making our way north to Churchill. Over the next two days the train took us through Manitoba's wheat fields, interlake, parkland, wooded narrows, boreal forest, taiga and tundra. Visiting after slowly-consumed meals while chugging along the track, we all agreed how pleasant the train ride is. As opposed to being plopped into a foreign environment, the train provided us an opportunity to appreciate the 1000 km distance between Winnipeg and Churchill.       
       
Once settled-in and provided a Churchill and area tour, the tide dictates our ability to get on the River to experience the beluga whales. This week the tides were late and we were on the water well into the evening. Our first outing was in a high-set vessel, allowing us to easily peer down into the Churchill's blue green water and track the whales tracking us. On top of watching the whales, the scent of the clean sea, pushing wind and above-water sounds of whale splashes, the hydrophone whirring and chirping in the background added a dimension to the experience very hard to communicate in words.       
       
Before heading out again on the water, we embarked upon a Tundra Buggy to see what the tundra had in store for us. Before the day was out, we visited with migratory woodland caribou, tundra swans, snow geese, sandhill cranes and a healthy-looking polar bear! A very eventful day.       
       
Our second water excursion started with all of us on zodiac boats but didn't end so. It was planned that way, don't worry! A couple of us were outfitted in thick, buoyant wetsuits and snorkeled with the belugas. The wetsuits offset the 4º C water temperature and were very warm and comfortable. Really!       
       
Zodiacs ride low on the water, getting all guests within arms-reach, literally, of swarming belugas. Wow! Drifting amongst the whales, that seemed very pleased to investigate and visit with us, is a thrill for even seasoned adventurers.